Weathering and dry-brushing

This page has safety advice that hasn't yet been checked by our safety reviewer. Treat it as general guidance, and follow your game's, venue's or product's own safety rules first.

An introduction to weathering and dry-brushing, painting techniques that add wear, dirt and age to costumes and props, for beginners painting their first pieces.

Weathering is the broad practice of making a finished prop or costume piece look like it has actually been used — scratched, rusted, dirtied, or worn down by time and hard use. Dry-brushing is one of the most popular tools within that practice. The idea is simple: you load a stiff-bristled brush with a small amount of paint, then wipe almost all of it off on a paper towel or cloth until barely any colour remains on the bristles. You then drag that near-dry brush lightly across raised edges, textures, and corners of your piece. Because so little paint transfers, it catches only the high points of a surface and leaves the recesses dark, giving an immediate illusion of depth and wear. Beyond dry-brushing, weathering includes washes (thinned-down dark paint flooded into recesses and wiped away from raised areas), stippling texture with a sponge, dabbing on oil or enamel paints for rust streaks, and brushing weathering pigment powders over a surface for a dusty or sooty finish. Each method layers on top of the last, and part of the skill is knowing when to stop — over-weathered pieces can look muddy rather than battle-scarred. Working from large subtle effects first and adding small sharp details last tends to give the most believable results. For armour made from craft foam, EVA foam, or thermoplastics, weathering is usually done after sealing and base-coating. Acrylic paints work well because they dry quickly and clean up with water, but many makers also use oil-based washes or special weathering products — check each product's own instructions for drying and layering times, as these vary widely. Dry-brushing with a metallic colour over a darker base coat is one of the fastest ways to make flat foam read as beaten metal. Safety is straightforward for most weathering work, but a few points are worth keeping in mind. Some weathering pigments and aerosol sealers release fine particles or fumes that you should not breathe in, so work in a well-ventilated space or outdoors, and wear a dust mask or respirator rated for the materials you are using. If you are using any solvent-based products — certain washes, thinners, or primers — read the label carefully, keep the area ventilated, and keep these away from younger makers unless an adult is directly supervising. Rags and paper towels soaked in oil paint or linseed-based products can heat up and catch fire on their own as they dry, so lay them out flat outdoors or keep them in a sealed metal container of water before throwing them away. Protect nearby surfaces with newspaper or a drop cloth, and wash hands thoroughly after each session.